Aging Skin
Skin appearance can change with age and sun exposure. Sun exposure alone accounts for around 80% of skin aging and can lead to photoaging. Photoaging causes the skin to look older, darker, wrinkled and rough. In addition, sun exposure increases the risk for skin cancer, both malignant lesions and benign lesions such as actinic keratoses. In addition, as we age the skin naturally becomes thinner and drier leading to wrinkles and sagging areas. Skin hydration, collagen and elasticity naturally decrease with age.
So, what can we do to delay signs of aging skin?
The number one most important habit that someone can do to delay wrinkles is to wear sunscreen daily with at least an SPF of 30. In addition, applying a daily moisturizer is another great habit to adopt. Dry skin may not necessarily lead to wrinkles however moisturizers can temporarily help improve the appearance of skin. Moisturizers can be either occlusive, emollients or humectants and most moisturizers are a combination of the three.
In addition, certain supplements may help delay signs of aging skin…
There are a variety of supplements and products that may help delay signs of aging.
Coenzyme Q 10 (CoQ10),also known as ubiquinone, is a lipid-soluble antioxidant. As we age, the level of CoQ10 naturally decreases, making our bodies more prone to free radicals. When free radicals are produced it can increase the appearance of wrinkles. There is one study that supports topical treatment of CoQ10 to help improve skin appearance and reduce crow’s feet around the eyes. Another small study supports the oral use of CoQ10 (50 to 150 mg daily) to help reduce wrinkles and improve skin smoothness. CoQ10 antioxidant properties are believed to help create collagen and elastin and improving skin appearance. Great food sources of CoQ10 include cold water fish, like tuna, salmon, mackerel and sardines. Most people tolerate CoQ10 supplementation well, although some may complain of stomach upset and diarrhea. It also lowers blood pressure, therefore if your blood pressure runs low you will want to monitor it. In rare occasions it may cause skin rashes and always perform initial test spots prior to trying a new product.
Collagen supplements are another great product. Look for supplements that are either animal or fish source and that contain vitamin C, manganese, copper and zinc. These vitamins and minerals help with the production of collagen. If you are true vegan the alternative would be a vegan product that contains supplemental amino acids, vitamins and minerals and these are precursors that help your body make collagen.
Evening primrose oil (EPO)historically was known as “King’s Cure-All” as it was believed to be honorable and used to treat almost everything. EPO contains the omega-6 fatty acid, gamma linolenic acid (GLA) and may help improve skin appearance. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study in 2005 found that participants that were treated with oral EPO reported improvement in skin moisture, elasticity and firmness after 12 weeks.
Look for EPO capsules that have vitamin E. Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant to help slow the breakdown of the fatty acids within EPO. Some side effects that may occur are nausea and loose stools. Avoid if you have a seizure disorder, about to have surgery or are pregnant. Always speak to your doctor if you have concerns. In addition to helping your skin there is support that it may help in managing nerve damage, eczema and PMS.
Hyaluronic Acid (HA)is a naturally occurring sugar found in the skin. It helps our skin attract and retain water, fighting signs of aging. HA plays a role in improving skin elasticity and tone and improving overall skin appearance. Some products may list the salt form, sodium hyaluronate. Sodium hyaluronate is a more stable form of the product, preventing the product from breaking down. In addition, sodium hyaluronate has a much smaller molecular size allowing it to penetrate the skin better than HA.
The industry standard for topical formulations contains 2% HA per solution. This is the optimum amount of concentration that can be put in a solution without any drying effects.
Topical products are available without prescriptions. It is best to apply the serum after cleansing and toning. You may then apply your moisturizer and daily SPF on top.
If you have eczema or rosacea you will want to test patch the product to ensure there is no irritation to the skin. In addition, fillers that are performed by a medical provider often contain HA as it is tolerated incredibly well.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)are plant or animal derived acids. The most promising forms are glycolic acid and lactic acid. AHA primarily works as an exfoliant, which removes the top layer of skin to stimulate the growth of new skin. The idea is this will leave your skin looking smoother, with a brighter complexion and promote collagen formation. Some chemical peels used by professionals contain AHA. Many products are available topically as creams and serums at your local drugstore. In general products that contain more AHA result in a stronger exfoliation effect. The FDA recommends products be less than 10 percent to prevent side effects. If products are used daily, the concentration of AHA may be lower as this may cause skin irritation. It is best to start off using AHA products every other day allowing your skin to get used to the product and increasing gradually to daily use. Broad spectrum sunscreen should always be applied over the alpha hydroxy acid treatment as your skin will be more sensitive to the sun.
Topical retinol is a vitamin A derivative and an antioxidant. Retinols work by removing the top layer of skin which soften rough patches, stimulate the production of new blood vessels and promote collagen formation. These products plump skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. There are prescription forms of retinols, such as tretinoin, which are considered the gold-standard for treating existing wrinkles. Unfortunately, when these products are stopped the skin will eventually go back to the way it was. Over the counter retinols are less potent but studies do show that these products increase the production of glycosaminoglycans which absorb water. By absorbing water this helps puff the skin and smooths wrinkles. Again, always wear sunscreen as your skin is more sensitive.
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a water soluble vitamin that may help improve skin appearance by reducing water loss in the skin and improving skin elasticity. It is thought to help build keratin proteins which aids in softening lines and wrinkles and diminishes dullness. Niacinamide is a potent antioxidant and research supports its use in reducing actinic keratosis. Actinic keratosis are pre-cancerous cells that appear as rough, scaly patches on the skin due to years of exposure to the sun. Taking niacinamide 500 mg once or twice daily may help reduce these skin lesions.
Niacinamide is also available in topical serums that can be applied to the skin daily. It is best to apply after cleansing your face and prior to any toners. Allergic reactions may occur so small spot tests should be done and always follow the package directions. Noticeable improvement in skin tone and appearance will take at least 8 weeks. Some foods that are great sources of vitamin B3 are eggs, cereals, green vegetables, beans, fish and milk.
Rosehip oil is pressed from the seeds of wild rose bushes and is loaded with fatty acids, such as linoleic acids, and vitamins A and C. It also has lycopene which is the antioxidant that gives tomatoes, grapefruit, and watermelons it’s red and pink color. There is a study that supports an oral powder of rosehip for the reduction in the appearance of crow’s feet after at least 8 weeks of treatment. Other studies support the topical form of rosehip oil in the delay of wrinkles. You can use rosehip oil topically by adding a few drops to your favorite moisturizer. It should never be ingested internally and should be stored in the refrigerator away from light to increase its shelf life. Always do a patch test first to ensure you do not have an allergic reaction. The more expensive form of rosehip oil is organic, cold-pressed, as this product tends to be high quality, pure, with better results.
Vitamin C is a water soluble vitamin also known as ascorbic acid. It is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect skin from sun damage. Vitamin C helps in the natural regeneration to repair damaged skin cells. A severe deficiency in vitamin C may lead to scurvy, which is characterized by skin fragility, bleeding gums and corkscrew hairs. Topical application of vitamin C in combination with vitamin E have shown to reduce UV radiation. Vitamin C promotes the formation of collagen. Oral intake, especially by consuming a diet rich in fruits and vegetables may help improve skin tightness. When purchasing vitamin C cream products, it is important to store the products from air and sunlight to prevent chemical breakdown.
Additional considerations….
External factors may also play a role in aging skin. Smoking has shown to accelerate skin aging, especially around the eyes and mouth. Try to quit smoking for many health reasons including aging skin. Air pollution could be another contributing factor. Diet can also play role: avoid refined sugars, and consume more fruits and vegetables. In addition, in office treatments performed by performed by dermatologists such as lasers, radiofrequency, ultrasound, micro needling, fillers may help.
For more information about collagen check my previous collagen post.
Reference:
1. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579659/pdf/nutrients-09-00866.pdf
2. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27548886. Accessed on April 11, 2020
3. Knott, Anja et al. “Topical treatment with coenzyme Q10-containing formulas improves skin's Q10 level and provides antioxidative effects.” BioFactors (Oxford, England) vol. 41,6 (2015): 383-90. doi:10.1002/biof.1239. Accessed on April 11, 2020
4. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25561219/?from_term=niacinamide+and+actinic+keratoses&from_pos=4. Accessed on April 12, 2020
5. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25653189?dopt=Abstract. Accessed on April 25th, 2020
